Brioche Peach Butts Revisited

That's right, I said peach butts. And if you can look at these and tell me that all you see are pastries or peaches then you have a much cleaner way of thinking then me or any of my friends, and therefore are probably not as fun. I made these a few years ago and kept insisting that they were peaches not butts, but after a while I gave in. It's more fun this way anyways.

But back to the pastry, these consist of fluffy brioche filled with peach schnapps spiked pastry cream, dipped in apricot jam and rolled in sugar. After sitting for a while the pastry cream and the jam work at the brioche from inside and out making it even more tender and flavorful. I got the original recipe from Roland Mesnier's Basic to Beautiful Cakes, but it took me a while to figure out that recipes in books can't always be trusted. I had to adjust the oven temperature by a whole lot in order to not burn these:



I was going to pose these beauties and take glamor shots, but they were ordered during the insanely hectic week before Christmas, and when I finally wrapped them all up all I wanted to do was go to sleep. I did save one for myself as a treat, but if you want to see what they should look like, you should go back to my original post. This was the moment I halfheartedly remembered to take a picture of the end product from this batch. As you can see, even photographers need to be fed.



The recipes for both the peaches and the pastry cream are out there online in the book previews, which is why I didn't feel too badly about putting them here, but I'd still recommend you go and get the book. Even if some of the recipes need adjustments, it's full of great ideas and wonderful inspiration.

Brioche Peaches
adapted from Roland Mesnier's Basic to Beautiful Cakes

1.5 tsp salt
5 Tbsp sugar
6 Tbsp warm water
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 oz dry yeast (or 1 oz fresh or about 2.5 tsp)
5 large eggs
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
2.5 cups pastry cream (recipe below)
2 cup of your favorite apricot jam. Preferably one without too many chunks.
Red food coloring
about 2 cups sugar for coating
If you're feeling fancy you can make stems, leaves, ladybugs, what have you out of marzipan to decorate, but it's not necessary and will not camouflage the fact that they still look like fuzzy butts.

- Combine the salt, sugar and 2 Tablespoons of warm water in a stand mixer bowl fitted with a dough hook. Stir up a bit to dissolve the salt and sugar, but don't worry about it too much. Add the flour and stir to combine.
- In a small bowl, combine the remaining 4 Tablespoons of warm water and yeast and let stand until it dissolves and becomes foamy.
- With the mixer on medium speed, add 4 of the eggs one at a time. Continue to stir for 5-7 minutes, until the dough is smooth and very firm.
- With the mixer still on medium, carefully add the last egg and then the yeast mixture. Turn the mixer down to low and mix for 15 minutes. Everything will look sloppy and watery at first, but don't worry, it'll come together.
- With the mixer still on low, add the butter a few tablespoons at a time, letting each addition get completely incorporated before you add more. Once it's all in there the dough should be glossy and elastic.
- Cover the bowl loosely with a piece of saran wrap and a clean kitchen towel and let it stand in a warm, draft-free spot for about an hour and a half, until it has doubled in size.
- Make the pastry cream while the dough is rising.
- Deflate the dough by flipping it a few times in the bowl, cover it again with the saran wrap and towel and place in the fridge overnight, or no longer then 24 hours. Don't put the saran wrap on too tight or you'll stop the dough from growing. I added it just to avoid a skin from forming on the dough.
- The next day, line one or two baking sheets with parchment or a silpat, and either roll the dough into walnut sized pieces or use a small scoop to make the dough balls (personally I like the scoop because it keeps the sizes fairly uniform) and place the balls on the baking sheets at least 2 inches apart, squashing them a little bit on top with your palm. Lightly drape the sheets with saran wrap and let stand in a warm spot until they've doubled in size. As the dough rises, it might not do so uniformly, so you may want to take a butter knife and reshape the balls a bit before baking.
- Here is where I GREATLY disagree with the recipe given. The recipe says to bake the balls at 425F for 12-15 min, but that seems wildly wrong and when I tried it, everything burned. After several batches and experimentation, I found that baking them at 350F for 11 - 12 minutes produces perfect results, every time.
- Let the balls cool completely and then using a serrated butter knife gut the suckers. Okay okay, carefully cut out quarter sized holes in the bottoms of the brioche balls, pull out and make a bit of room for the pastry cream. The recipe recommends freezing the brioche and using a melon baller, but I found that to be messy and time consuming.
- Fill each half with pastry cream using a pastry bag or a zippy with the corner cut off, match halves to eachother and squash them together, wiping away any filling that oozes out. You want a bit to ooze out because that means the two halves are nicely sealed together.
- Put about 2 cups of sugar into a shallow bowl and keep it close by.
- Bring the apricot jam to a boil in a small pan with a bit of water if it's too thick and push it though a fine mesh strainer into a bowl.
- Transfer 1/4 cup of the jam into a smaller bowl and add one or two drops of the red food coloring into it.
- With a pastry brush cover each "peach" with the plain jam, dabbing a bit of the colored jam on the sides to give it a slight blush, and immediately roll in the sugar. Attach stem, leaf, ladybug if using.
- You can eat it right away, but I find it to be better after it had a chance to sit for a bit. As long as it's in a tightly covered container and as long as you let it come to room temp before eating, you can even keep these in the fridge for a few days.


Pastry Cream
Also from same book with a few very minor tweaks

7 Tbsp sugar
1/2 Tbsp pure vanilla extract
1/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp cornstarch
Pinch of salt
3 large eggs, or 4 large egg yolks
2 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled
2 Tbsp peach schnapps (or any other liquor you like)

- Stir together the sugar and cornstarch together in a medium bowl. Whisk in the eggs or egg yolks.
- Bring the milk to a boil in a large saucepan. Slowly dribble 1/2 cup of the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Dribble another 1/2 cup of the milk into the egg mixture, again whisking constantly.
- Whisk the egg mixture back into the milk and return the pan to the heat. Bring to a full boil, whisking constantly until it has thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Stir in the vanilla, salt, butter and liquor. Cover with plastic wrap, making sure that the plastic is touching the surface of the pastry cream to avoid a skin from forming, and allow to cool completely. Refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Apple Cider Caramels

I love making caramel almost as much as I love making jam. When I hover over my blue dutch oven filled with bubbling deliciousness I feel like a voodoo doctor simmering a magic potion in a cauldron, patiently giving it a stir or a nudge and carefully watching the magical transformation from grainy sugar to a beautiful golden syrup. Then carefully offering the cream as a sacrifice to the erupting volcano gods of sugar, accepting the tower of steam as a reminder of their power and feverishly stirring to ensure that the offering is accepted and the mixture turns smooth. Heating the glossy mixture until it's practically pillow-like, and then the eternal wait after the lot has been poured and stands cooling on the counter. But if all was done just right and the lords of caramel are kind, you will be rewarded for your vigilance with pretty bits of luscious candy to be shared with only those most worthy of your efforts.

The lovely Kate at Our Best Bites posted this recipe for Apple Cider Caramels on her blog and I absolutely had to give them a try. Twice. I followed her instructions in all things except for the cutting. A long time ago, I saw caramels at a gourmet shop being sold in logs. Like a 9"x.5"x.5" square log wrapped up in parchment and a pretty sticker keeping the center from unwinding and two little ribbons on the ends. Kind of like a cut your own damn caramels system and since I hate the individual wrapping part, I went with the logs, which cut down the wrapping process dramatically. Plus, as Kate pointed out, "Cut your own damn caramels" makes for a fantastic slogan and works in all sorts of real world situations.

Apple Cider Caramels
Recipe from Our Best Bites

2 cup high-quality apple cider
1 cup heavy cream or whipping cream, divided
1 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch nutmeg
1/4 tsp allspice
1 1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup real butter, cubed

- Pour cider into a medium saucepan and boil on high for about 20 minutes or until the cider is reduced to 1/3 c. Keep an eye on it...it might try to run away. Set aside to cool.
- Line an 8" square pan with parchment paper, making sure to leave about 1" hanging over the edges for easy removal. Coat with a bit of vegetable oil and set aside.
- In a small bowl, combine 2/3 c. cream, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and reduced apple cider. Set aside.
- In a large, heavy saucepan, combine the sugar, 1/3 c. whipping cream + enough water to reach the 1/2 c. line on the measuring cup, and corn syrup. Cook over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Insert the candy thermometer and simmer until the syrup reaches 234 degrees.
- Remove from heat and slowly whisk in the cream mixture. Add the cubed butter and stir until the cream and butter are fully incorporated. Return the pan to heat and re-insert the candy thermometer. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until the temperature reaches 248 degrees.
- Remove from heat and pour the caramel into the prepared pan. Let the mixture cool completely at room temperature or in the refrigerator. I covered the top of the pan loosely with saran wrap and left it out overnight. You could cut the caramels into 1/2" squares and wrap each caramel in wax paper, but I'm lazy so I cut the caramel into 1/2" logs, which meant that I had exponentially fewer pieces to individually wrap. Store in an airtight container or in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, but I can guarantee that they won't last that long. These things are delicious!

Shortbread Walnut Sandwich Cookies

I can't help it, I must bake for the holidays. It's in my DNA. In fact, if you looked at my DNA string, I'll guarantee you that there will be ladders of links to recipes and tiny sticks of butter connecting them twirling about. I've tried to keep the craziness to a minimum. There are no "regulars", no white chocolate cranberry cookies, no toffee (I'm sorry family, tough noogies). I'm only making time for the new stuff, the stuff that's exciting and interesting to experiment with. But believe me, this cookie is a keeper.

I bought these little molds from King Arthur Flour ages ago, and I'm now glad that I did, because it looks like they don't carry them anymore. The closest thing they have now is this, but it's not the same. I found them when I was reorganizing my kitchen last weekend and I set them out, determined to make use of them. A few days ago I said to myself, if I have everything needed to make these, if I don't have to make a grocery store run, these will get made, if not, back in the drawer they go. Lucky for you the recipe, which I also got from KAF, is the simplest thing in the world. Butter? check. Walnuts? check. A little bit of time had to be invested, just because you need to fill each mold individually, but I put on some reruns and got into the rhythm of it. Very therapeutic.

The cookies are tender, buttery, with a wonderful toasted walnut flavor. I didn't use KAF's filling recipe, going with a Nutella spiked ganache instead, but the chocolate filling is really only there to keep the two walnut halves together and to accentuate the walnut flavor, so it doesn't really matter which way you go. I've made this recipe twice now and trust me, it's totally worth it.



Shortbread Walnut Sandwich Cookies
adapted from KAF
The recipe they listed didn't make nearly as many cookies as they said it should have. Maybe I was overly generous when filling the molds, but they came out great, so I'd recommend doubling the recipe, like I did here.

1 cup soft butter
2/3 cup light brown sugar
1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp vanilla extract
2 cup flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 cup very finely chopped walnuts

12 oz semi-sweet chocolate
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
1/4 cup honey
1/2 cup Nutella

- Preheat the oven to 375°F. Get out your molds or a mini madeleine pan; there's no need to grease anything.
- Beat the soft butter, brown sugar, salt, and vanilla until fluffy.
- Stir in the flour, cornstarch, and nuts. Just use a spoon or a sturdy spatula. It comes together quickly and you won't end up covered in flour like you would be if you tried using the mixer. Trust me.
- Shape the dough into a rectangle or square, wrap it in saran wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Cut the block of dough into squares a bit smaller then 1/2 inch thick. You don't have to, and you may need to adjust the square size, but for me, this made filling the molds faster then pulling off pieces and trying to keep things uniform.
- Press 1 teaspoonful, or a pre-cut square, of chilled dough into the bottom and up the sides of each well in the pan.
- Bake the cookies for 8 to 10 minutes, until they're browned around the edges. Cool for a few minutes, then push on the thick edge of each cookie to pop it out of the pan. Repeat with the remaining dough.
- While the cookies are cooling, chop your chocolate into small pieces and put into a medium sized bowl.
- Combine the cream butter and honey in a small pot over high heat and stir until the butter has melted and the mixture comes just barely to a simmer, then pour the whole thing over the chocolate.
- Let the chocolate sit for a few minutes and then stir or whisk the mixture until it's uniform, smooth and yummy looking. Add the Nutella and whisk again to completely incorporate.
- Allow the ganache to sit at room temp for a little while to firm up, then spoon some into a piping bag and pipe a little less then a teaspoonful into half the cookies. Let them sit for a few minutes to partially set up, then sandwich a filled half with an unfilled one. Eat. Repeat.

Pretty Teacup for Teatime

Normally, I'm not a big fan of working from home. I know that's weird, but I actually like getting dressed, heading out in the cold, and interacting with coworkers face to face. But when I have to log in at 7am, and I have the option to sleep through the commute time and just roll out of bed, I'm going with the fuzzy robe and slippers routine. While it's too quiet and I'm working straight through lunch, I do get to drink fancy shmancy tea in my pretty tea cups, and that almost makes up for things.



This is blueberry tea I bought a long long time ago, and while I haven't started baking cookies yet, I make sure to always keep little chocolates at home, just for these occasions.



So in this hectic time of work, holiday shopping, cookie baking, and decoration frenzy, I urge you to take 5 minutes, pour yourself a cup of your favorite tea in the prettiest cup you own, find a cookie or a little treat, and just relax. Just for 5 minutes. Check out this link. Then you can go and wrap the neighborhood in garlands or cover the driveway with tinsel if you like.

Chocolate Orange Cupcakes

Amidst all the jolly, bright and shiny posts I'm seeing all over the blogosphere these days, I can help but feel a bit like a Grinch. Or rather to be more accurate, like a lump of coal. I really want to like the holidays, I really really do. I love everything about them. The over the top decorations, the carefully wrapped presents, the flurry of warm cookies and hot cocoa. But the best part is that you see all your friends and family, even the ones you haven't seen or heard from in months. Unfortunately, due to the nature of my job, it's also the time of the year when I become a hermit (hence my absence from this blog). The hours are longer and the days are more hectic and I've been trying to get everything in my neglected home back to order during what little spare time I can squeak out of my day. The sun sets almost as soon as it rises so some days I feel like I truly am living in a cave somewhere in the farthest reaches of Siberia. Have you ever felt exhausted even though you've been sitting at a desk all day? That's essentially where I am right now.

I finally got away for a quick dinner with two of my closest friends last night and it was such a great feeling to just sit and chat for a little while without a todo list or somewhere I have to run to next. I want more of that. I want people to drop by for a few minutes and chat over a cup of tea. I want to go outside and make a snowman, or just go for a walk and look at lights. And I want more energy to bake. I keep bookmarking all these recipes and wishing I had the time or the will to try them.

That's not to say that I haven't been baking. I mean what is sleep, after all? No one really needs it, right? So while I don't have festive holiday cookie exchange recipes for you today, I do have these amazingly quick and incredibly easy cupcakes. They have orange zest in them, so they're totally festive. I promise.



Chocolate Orange Cupcakes
Cake recipe adapted from Martha Stewart and frosting is adapted from Whipped

Cake:

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 cups sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
3/4 cup orange juice*
3/4 cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
zest of 1 orange*

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line standard muffin tins with paper liners; set aside. Sift together cocoa powder, flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt into a large bowl. Add eggs, orange juice, buttermilk, oil, vanilla and zest, and mix until smooth, about 3 minutes. Just use a whisk or a spoon and give your KitchenAid a rest this one time. Scrape down the sides and bottom of bowl to assure batter is well mixed.

2. Divide batter evenly among muffin cups, filling each 2/3 full. Bake until tops spring back when touched, about 18 minutes, rotating pan once if needed. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely and revel in the fact that you've only really dirtied one bowl and one whisk. Yay for easy cleanup!

Frosting:

24 ounces high-quality milk chocolate (I used Valrhona), chopped
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups sour cream
1/4 cup light corn syrup
zest of 2 oranges *

Place chocolate in large metal bowl. Set bowl over saucepan of simmering water and stir until melted and smooth. Remove bowl from over water. Add butter and stir until melted, then add sour cream, corn syrup and zest, and whisk until smooth. Let frosting stand at room temperature until thick enough to spread, about 20 minutes. You can also nuke the chocolate in the microwave in 20 second intervals, until it's melted and warm, and save yourself a few extra dishes you won't have to wash. Guess which version I went with?

Frost the cooled cupcakes and enjoy. They're actually better if you keep them in the fridge and serve the next day. The orange flavor permeates the cake and frosting giving both a more pronounced flavor. Just make sure you let them come to back to room temp before eating.

* If you just zest 3 oranges and split the zest between the cake and the frosting, you can squeeze out the oranges and use the juice. It should be enough to make the cake and you won't end up with naked albino oranges getting crusty and neglected on your counter.